It was a perfect riding day as I headed out of Channel Port-aux-Basques for Rocky Harbour. The day dawned sunny and cool, so I dressed accordingly and was on the road by 8:00 a.m. Traffic was light and Fury and I sailed along in blithe unconcern for worldly matters. The scenery along the way, from the Table Mountains leaving Port-aux-Basques to the beautiful mountain and water scenes as we approached Cornerbrook.
I stopped at Cornerbrook for gas and a Timmy’s tea break. I think I saw more Tim Horton’s between Cornerbrook and Rocky Harbour than anywhere else in the Maritimes! The scenery continued to be spectacular through valleys and then up steep rises to feel like we were flying over the top of the mountains. Somewhere along the way, Fury and I reached the 22,000 km mark on this trip. Clearly we will exceed the 23,000 kms originally estimated for the cross-country journey. Arrived in Rocky Harbour about 1:00 p.m. and met Peter at the Fisherman’s Landing Inn. This is a really nice hotel with well-appointed, spacious rooms. The free laundry for guests was a big sell for me, with everything in my bag needing a wash (and probably me too!). Taking advantage of the sunny afternoon, we headed over to Lobster Head Cove lighthouse to check out the tidal pools at low tide. The tidal pools didn’t compare to those on Vancouver Island, but there were some spectacular rock formations. Some were black with some kind really pronounced green intrusions. I though of how Tracey would have loved this place with the variety and beauty of the rocky shore. I left a few ashes there for her, on the pretty black and green rocks beneath the lighthouse. The brief tour through the lighthouse revealed a “family” business. Three generations were in charge of the light on this point and the lighthouse was set up as their home was in the day. Photographs and stories of the family were placed throughout the building. One of the stories was a son saying how travellers would be sheltered and fed by his mother and sometimes they would wake up on the floor in the morning because their mom had given their bed to a weary traveller. The story reminded me of the days when we thought it was so fun to crawl into our sleeping bags and sleep on the floor at Grandma Curtis’ when there was a houseful. The evening ended with dinner at the upstairs restaurant at the Anchor hotel. The food was very good and was followed up with a pleasant stroll down the beach and back to the hotel. Looking forward to visiting L’Anse aux Meadows tomorrow to see the Viking settlement. Newfoundland is certainly a fascinating place to visit!
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I could start by saying that I don’t have a lot of stories to tell today because I really did very little riding. However, as I review the day, I always have much more to tell than anticipated.
Having had a forced, but much needed rest and early end to yesterday’s adventures, I was up early, packed up and off to the breakfast room in good time. I can recommend the Highland Motel (if you don’t mind basic) for their reasonable price, clean room and complimentary breakfast that included boiled eggs and sausages, along with the usual suspects of toast, cereal, juice, coffee, etc. Knowing that I was supposed to arrive at the ferry to Newfoundland two hours early to keep my reservation, it seemed prudent to give myself time to get lost. A quick breakfast and back to the room to load up Fury. As I was doing so, several people stopped to chat. I was pleased to be able to have the B & B in Levis, Quebec to suggest to Suhkwinder and Rod, who were travelling across the country from Alberta with their two children. They had some suggestions for me too as they were travelling the opposite direction. Another couple from Quebec stopped to say hi and spoke much the same Frenglish as me, though I forgot to ask for names! Then, just as I was finishing my loading, Donna said hi. She used to be a rider and misses her bike, so was interested to see mine and hear about my adventure. And that was all before I got out of the motel parking lot! Even I would have had trouble getting lost on the way to the ferry, so Fury and I arrived in good time and were the second bike to be lined up. The couple in front of me were headed over to visit his father (I didn’t get their names either. ☹). A short while later, Peter pulled up on his quad. He was headed over to do a trek through Newfoundland – not the first time for him. He had a hotel suggestion and some good sight-seeing suggestions as well. We had a good visit while waiting for our loading instructions. Eventually four trikes pulled in behind us, but by then, it was almost time to prepare for loading. Got to chat a bit with those folks when I got off the ferry. Whole new game on the Marine Atlantic ferry. These ferries feel like they are the size of a small cruise ship and I looked askance at the mechanisms for securing my bike. I haven’t been on a ferry yet that secured bikes the same way. Watching the guy ahead of me lock his down, I thought I could figure it out. Then Danny from the deck crew came over and cheerfully gave me all the help I needed! And I’ve taken pictures, so I should remember for the trip back. These ferries were apparently purchased from Norway and are absolutely beautiful. Not being familiar with how busy they would be and fully aware that it is peak season, I reserved a seat, as well as my vehicle spot on the boat. The “reserved” area was like flying first class. Not too many people were in the room, reclining seats, lots of rooms, washrooms on our level and a little café and a key card for access! Felt like I should have changed into an evening gown! My seat was right in front, looking out of the window, which I thought was fabulous. It was fabulous except that the sun was shining in and it got quite warm. Fortunately, the reserved area was not all booked and I was able to sit back one row in the shade. While it was kind of fun to feel like the rich and famous, I’m not sure I would bother reserving a seat again. It was very warm up there and having seen the rest of the boat in the 7-hour journey across the North Atlantic, the other areas looked very comfortable too. The boat had a nice little gift shop and helpful reception staff. In fact, all the staff on the boat were very friendly and helpful. There were a variety of food and beverage opportunities and a sundeck at the top. I explored it a bit and then went back to my seat and had a bit of a doze while my system adjusted to the sway of a slightly rough sea. Before I knew it, it was time to go back down to the vehicle decks and prepare for unloading. This presented more opportunities to chat as others arrived to unload. As I was figuring out how to release the straps securing the bike, Peter and another gentleman helped me get them off the bike and in no time I was ready to go. It wasn’t much of a riding day, as it was already 7:00 p.m. and I had booked into the St. Christopher Hotel for the night. It is a very nice hotel, perched up on the hill overlooking the harbour. Got all checked in and then went for a walk. Seeing a little boardwalk, I took a little stroll and read the story boards about Channel Port-aux-Basques. On the way back, I ended up at the pub in the basement of the Harbour Restaurant. It has great ambiance and good food, but be prepared to wait a long time for it. The bartender was quick to take orders, but the kitchen was extremely slow in delivering them. The bonus, though, was visiting with a bunch of people in the pub! Two couples were travelling through on vacations and there was a table of locals there as well. Everyone was friendly and helpful and fun and I enjoyed our visit very much. The one couple is travelling in the same direction as I am, so I may see them again and get their names this time. Back at the hotel in a very comfy bed with enough pillows to satisfy even my exhorbitant pillow requirements, I am ready for a good sleep before starting my Newfoundland discoveries! |
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